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Graham Bartlett wows at Zengo

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"Bold" and "big" are adjectives many chefs use to describe their food's flavor. For some, the words have no bite. But for Graham Bartlett, the longtime chef de cuisine of Penn Quarter's thriving and trendy Zengo, these words portray exactly what he cooks -- assertive meals that fuse the fiery flavors of Latin America and Asia. The result? Such offerings as ceviche dorado with kimchee puree....

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