LEVITTOWN, Pennsylvania — Jim, the 58-year-old man at Sparky’s, offers me a menthol. It’s the first cigarette I’ve been offered at a bar, indoors, in at least 15 years. Sparky’s World Famous Bar is a smoke-friendly establishment because it doesn’t sell food.

You can still get food at Sparky’s — you just can’t buy food. There’s a popcorn machine in the corner, and the bartender brings me fresh batches every 30 minutes or so. On the high-tops in another corner sit about seven slices of pumpkin pie and two cans of whipped cream, the leftovers from an anniversary celebration a local motorcycle club just held here.